Answers to Our Most Commonly Asked Questions
Click on each question to see the answer
There is no obligation at all. We get free advertising by being in your neighborhood and that’s good enough for us. In case you’re wondering, it doesn’t matter what side of the tracks you live on. We don’t adjust prices according to the prestige or infamy of your zip code. No one gets favoritism, no one gets penalized.
The rest is pretty obvious. Have your teenagers pick up their dirty socks, have your husband put his golf clubs in the garage, and you put your feet up so we can do the rest.
We did drive back that evening to take care of it (for free, of course), but it would have been nice to get everything done in one trip. If you have somewhere to be, that’s ok. All we really need is a detailed description of the work you want done and some way to get our grubby mitts on payment when we’re finished.
- Ross, the owner, is on every job site
- You get a six month warranty for free
- We have insurance out the wazoo
- We force dry your carpet
- You get free encapsulant protector (good stuff!)
- Our incredible attention to detail
- Unrivaled stain removal skills
- We protect your walls, corners, and floors with mats and special guards
- We sanitize our tools and equipment between jobs
- Free pet damage treatment
The second most common reason stains return is because of a phenomenon called capillary action. This happens when a foreign material (soda, coffee, blood, etc.) is in the carpet backing or padding. The stain disappears when it’s cleaned, but over time it climbs back up the carpet fibers and rears it’s ugly head again. Have you ever put a stalk of celery into a cup of colored water? After several hours the entire stalk will have turned the same color as the water, even though the top half is sticking up out of the cup. That’s capillary action. It’s treatable but depending on the carpet type it can be an ongoing problem. However, it can be controlled, and we know some people who know how, hint, hint.
Folks, that was 40 years ago. Nowadays, if a carpet re-soils in a short period of time then something went wrong. A properly cleaned carpet should never—and we mean never—get dirty faster. That’s why we take our time. Doing so eliminates mistakes and the problems they cause.
Thankfully you don’t have to take our word for it. We can show you our electronic probes that detect urine. They easily find it before treatment, but afterwards they will not show any readings at all, even if the area in question continues to glow under UV light.
We include encapsulant protector for free (good enough for most customers), but if you’d like Scotchgard we can apply it for a small fee. Click here to read more.
As long as you have your carpet cleaned regularly you should be able to keep allergies well under control. You’re probably thinking “Yeah, right. Of course they’ll say that. They make money cleaning carpet”. But we also clean wood, tile, and laminate floors, etc. So we don’t have any bias. If you can walk on it we can clean it. According to the EPA, as long as it’s regularly cleaned, carpet is much better at controlling allergies than hard floors.
On commercial jobs, we have dry cleaning machines designed for commercial carpet that hardly make any noise at all.
You can clean out almost any spot with a Shop-Vac, a trigger sprayer, and one of two homemade cleaning solutions. We’ll give you the recipes first, then we’ll describe how to use them. The first solution is the most useful and is made by mixing about a teaspoon of Dawn dish soap into a cup of water (for greasy or oily spots you can add a teaspoon or two of rubbing alcohol.) It’s best for adhesive residue, chalk, crayon, dirt, feces, most foods, glue, grass, grease, gum, joint compound, makeup, paint and mystery stains.
The second is equal parts white vinegar and water. This works best for coffee, brown water stains, ice-melt salt, milk, old urine, and cola. Both solutions are used the same way. First, use a Shop-Vac to suck up as much excess material as possible. Don’t use a regular vacuum because they can’t handle moisture. Next, make up a batch of the appropriate cleaning solution and put it in a trigger sprayer, which you can buy at Lowe’s or Home Depot, or you can use an old Windex bottle as long as it’s been rinsed out. Lightly mist the spot and then tap on it with a spoon or any hard flat object that has a little weight to it. This works the cleaning solution into the spot without driving it deeper into the carpet. Don’t scrub with a brush or towel. That will fray the carpet fibers.
After it seems like the spot is loosening up a bit, turn on your Shop-Vac and suck it out (if the spot is small you can forgo the Shop-Vac and try to blot it up with a clean white towel—as long as you promise not to scrub!). If necessary, repeat those steps until the spot is gone. If you get to the point where you’ve removed as much as possible but the spot is still there, resist the urge to use more soap or to scrub with a towel or brush. You run the risk of damaging the carpet, and at this point a professional can still work his magic. If you fray the carpet or burn it with chemicals a professional’s hands are tied. Finally, we strongly recommend that you never attempt to remove blood, ink, or rust on your own. Those require special treatment that only a seasoned professional should handle.
The certifications are not acknowledged or required by any state or federal agency. To keep them up to date registrants are required to pay yearly dues. While the education in these courses can be valuable, the certifications themselves are, in our opinion, unnecessary. They are too easy to obtain (we can’t be proud of having the same certification a ten year old can get) and the yearly dues are inappropriate. On the other hand, we do have tremendous respect for several of the instructors, many of whom are invaluable members of this industry.